How Pottery Is Made – In 7 Simple Steps

When I first began making pottery at home, I essentially made it up as I went along. I experienced a few unanticipated logistical problems en route.
Hence, I believed it would be useful to offer a short guide on how to produce pottery at home. To assist you in avoiding certain mistakes I encountered.

The first thing you are required to make pottery is clay. Clay is very important different types of clay are available in the market as per requirements and applications as per environmental behavior we used different clay.

Follow the following steps for How Pottery Is Made

Step #1: Choose your Clay:

Selecting the proper clay is a crucial decision. There are numerous types of clay, but the majority of potters use only three types, each with its own
advantages and firing temperatures.

There are 5 Main Types of Ceramic Clay

1. Earthenware
   If you desire clay with a lower firing temperature, earthenware may be your best option. Certain clays tend to be less robust, more porous, and more plastic than others (easier to mold).
2. Stoneware
   Stoneware has a strong heat resistance and is more adaptable than other clays due to its density and durability. Because it is also plastic, this clay is an excellent option for novices (easier to mold).
3. Porcelain
   Porcelain is smooth, and has a high heat tolerance, but is more elastic (does not form as easily), making it more challenging for beginners to work with.
4. Ball Clay
   Ball clay consists of extremely fine clay particles or crystals. Because the particles of ball clay are so finely ground, they have a wide surface area to which water can adhere.
   There is also ample room for water to stay between the clay particles.
5. Fire Clay
   The last sort of ceramic clay we shall examine is fire clay. Similar to ball clay, fire clay is typically sold as a powder. Fire clay is distinguished by its extremely high firing temperature. The melting point of fire clay is approximately 2912F (1600C) (5). And it ripens at approximately 2696F.

Types Of Clay	Used For	Firing Temperature Range
Earthenware	Building materials	1828° to 2088° F
Stoneware	Cooking, baking	2124° – 2264° F
Porcelain	Decorative Things (Dishes)	2,200° and 2,600° F
Ball Clay	floor and wall tiles	2336° F
Fire Clay	lining furnaces, as fire brick	2,910 °F

Step #2: Clay Wedging

Wedging your clay is a crucial process that you should not omit for a variety of reasons. Specifically, it eliminates any air pockets that may exist in the clay. Eliminating the bubbles will make the clay easier to manipulate. Wedging also enhances the clay’s workability by creating a more homogeneous consistency and moisture level throughout.

Step #3: Choose a Pottery Making Method

After selecting the Clay and deciding how to Wedge it, it is time to create your pot. There are numerous techniques for molding clay. These are the three most common techniques chosen by beginning potters.

• Throwing
• Coiling
• Pinch Pot

Throwing

At The Potter’s Wheel, clay is thrown. The Potter shapes the clay on the wheel. I was one of the many novices who favored beginning with the wheel. I was immediately intrigued.

While there are numerous benefits to clay throwing, the difficulty is in centering the clay and bringing up the walls without causing the clay to collapse. It takes some time to learn how to center your clay and connect your hands with the wheel. The fundamentals can be learned in a few hours, but mastery can take several months or more.

Coiling

Coil pottery is a method of handcrafted pottery in which the potter makes the foundation, walls, and style by connecting clay coils (or cylinders). The potter forms a vessel by rolling clay into coils, stacking the coils, and joining them using pressure.

Early humans significantly improved their ceramics by coiling them. Large coil pots are far more durable than pinch pots or slab-built pots of the same size. Before to the invention of the wheel, the coil method was the finest way to construct a huge, stable vessel.

Pinch Pot

The pinch pot technique is arguably one of the easiest methods for making ceramics. Take a ball of clay and mould it into the desired form.
Because to the nature of the method, pinch pots are typically limited to a diminutive size. Most pinch pots will have a diameter of less than 6 inches, but bigger sizes are possible. This approach is rarely employed for larger vessels.

Step #4: Creating the Pots

After selecting a technique, you can begin creating your work of art. If you make a mistake when constructing your pot, as most novices do, simply grab another piece and begin again. Remember that there are no mistakes and that you can Recycle Clay multiple times. If you make a mistake and don’t like what you’ve created, you may just begin again.

A quarter of an inch should be the thickness of the clay pot. This prevents the pot from getting too heavy and reduces the likelihood of cracking during the drying phase and kiln firing. As much as possible, you want the pot to have uniform wall thickness, as uneven and too thin walls can cause it to crack.

Step #5: Decorating and embellishing your pottery

After completing your piece, you have several alternatives. In its greenware state, it can be decorated with underglazes and slips (wet, leather hard, or bone dry). It is essential to understand what can be accomplished in the Various Stages of Clay.
The leather hard stage is when the clay has hardened sufficiently to allow trimming, the addition of handles, and other modifications before the clay becomes too hard. The clay is referred to as leather-hard because, according to some, it feels like soft leather. You may now handle it without leaving fingerprints and trim the excess clay off the bottom to create a lovely foot.

Step #6: Biscuit-bake the clay

The primary cause of pottery breaking or even bursting in the kiln is that the item was not allowed to dry sufficiently. Although it may appear dry, clay still contains liquid.
Once the temperature climbs over 212 degrees Fahrenheit, the water evaporates into steam. If the steam cannot escape, it expands too quickly, causing the clay to break. Now, the time it will take for your pottery to dry considerably varies on the local climate. It can take a week or longer. The color of bone-dry clay will be lighter, and it will not feel chilly to the touch. Normal bisque firing temperatures vary from Cone 06 to Cone 4.

Step #7: Glazing your pottery

Once the bisque clay has transformed into ceramic material, it is time to glaze or glazes or underglaze your bisque pottery. There are numerous methods for applying glaze. The primary methods of glaze application are dipping, spraying, brushing, and pouring.
To ensure success (especially as a beginner), the firing temperature or cone size of your glaze should match that of your Clay.

Step #8 Glaze your pottery by firing it in a kiln.

Low-Firing Temperatures

Low-fire is the most often utilised shooting range. Low-fire clays may withstand temperatures about 998 degrees Celsius or 1828 degrees Fahrenheit. Cone 06.

Potters typically employ earthenware for low-temperature firing. It features a highly flexible body that will not deform or droop in the kiln. Earthenware is a more porous material than other clays, hence objects manufactured from it may not survive as long and may be more fragile.

Mid-Range Temperatures

Mid-range temperatures refer to temperatures between 2167 degrees Fahrenheit or 1186 Celsius and 2262 degrees Fahrenheit or 1238 Celsius. Cone 5 to Cone 7.

Although low-temperature firing is the most prevalent, potters are increasingly using temperatures in the middle range. Typically, stoneware is fired in a medium-sized kiln. With moderate fire, these pots will be more resilient.

High-Fire Stoneware

Fire-Tried Stoneware
High-fire stoneware or porcelain clay is burned between 1,100°C and 1,280°C (2,012°F and 2,412°F). The clay itself becomes impermeable, and in certain cases vitrified. Clay becomes a tough and long-lasting material when subjected to a high-temperature firing then glazed.